I was born in 1962 in The Royal Infirmary Lauriston Place. I grew up in Currie, Midlothian but Edinburgh took over in 1975, something we were quite happy about. I remember in the late 60s the number 52 SMT bus took us into town when we didn't have the car. The buses then were all routemaster types that you jumped on the back and paid a conductor. The bakers van that stopped in the street was exciting to me as I always got something nice. You entered in the back and there were cakes and bread on the shelves - strange considering there was a bakers across park from the house. Then there was the onion Johnny a man called Yves who would cycle round the doors with strings of onions. My mum always chatted to him and I learned a lot about Brittany and France from him over the years. There is an interview with him from 2003 on the BBC Scotland website.
My grandmother and grandfather lived in Murieston Terrace Dalry and we would visit them weekly. I remember being taken to see Jungle Book at the Tivoli cinema in Gorgie Road - it became a bingo hall and is now a church called Destiny. In the early 70s I was walking along Gorgie Road on my own and a woman pulled me into the Co op while mobs of football supporters came rampaging along the road. My grandparents flat was in a tenement and was one bedroom with a bath but the kitchen was in the living room by the window with a cooker in the cupboard. This was luxury compared to my other grandma who lived in Yeaman Place North Merchiston. She too had a one bedroom tenement flat but she had no bathroom or shower room just a WC. She had a coal fire in the living room and in the box room was piles of coal. She used to wash at the kitchen sink which like my other grandparents was in the living room by the window. Her flat remained like this until her death in 1976.
As a child shopping never interested me but there was one department store I loved to go to and that was Goldbergs at Tollcross. It was like entering another world. It was a big 5 storey white building built in 1960 with 2 big copper statues at either side of the main doors. A carpark lay in front and as you walked up the steps to the front door they opened automatically - this was fantastic to me. Then there were escalators that whizzed you to each floor - I remember being told off by a man for playing on them. All the carpets had big Gs on them and the front door handles were big Gs too. At christmas they had a childs area where you could be left to let your parents buy your gifts. They had a carousel and you could go on it as often as you wanted. But the best thing about Goldbergs was the cafe on the top floor with the roof garden outside. They had birds in aviarys and I seem to remember a parrot that talked to you. I also seem to remember a monkey there but maybe my memory is playing tricks. There were statues and fountains and a great view across the city. Sadly the shop couldn't compete with increasing competition and it was pulled down in 1990. The area is now flats and a bank building - such a shame.
My Granny on Goldberg's Roof garden 1964
Another early memory that must have been the late 60s was of sitting in the car and looking out at a scene of total devastation - rubble everywhere. I was in St James Square just after it was knocked down to make way for the St James Centre. Another area I remember being knocked down was one side of St Leonards Street. Portobello outdoor swimming pool complete with wave machine was another place I loved to go but that too has disappeared and is now tennis courts - such a pity.
The weather in the winter of 1962 was quite extreme I believe. It snowed in the autumn and didn't disappear until March. I remember in 1973 the Water of Leith froze and me my mum brother and dog all walked on it. According to my diary it was December 1st. Of course around that time the media was predicting a new ice age with global cooling. That seemed to come to an end with the summer of 1976!
Memories of my Edinburgh Youth - Part 1
Late 1970s Teenage Punk Rocker
Memories of my Edinburgh Youth - Part 2
I'd been into punk since early 1977 and loved everything about it. I went to my first punk gig in October 77 to see local band The Scars at Balerno Village Hall and it blew me away. The band were awesome but so was the audience. I remember a girl with multi coloured hair, pins, chains, wild make up who someone told me was called the Venereal Virgin (her real name was Shona). Two boys in ripped T shirts and razor sun glasses danced motionless while facing each other across the dance floor with heads cocked to one side. Such was the outrage of punk in 1977 that some parents came in and pulled their kids out. Mine didn't and I don't think I ever came down from that gig.
I was 14/15 that year but only looked about 10 so I could only see bands at the Odeon for the rest of the 70s. Buzzcocks/Joy Division, Sham 69, Edinburgh's Rezillos and Skids were some of the bands I saw. It was a big place with a great atmosphere even if the bouncers did try to stop you dancing.
On Saturdays I'd hang out at record shops like Hot Licks on Cockburn Street, Phoenix on the High Street or Bruces on Rose Street. In 1977 it was all new to see punks with safety pins, bondage trousers, spiky/coloured hair – I even saw a boy walking along Princes Street with his friend on a dog collar and lead. I'd sometimes go to school with my pyjama jacket on with safety pin necklace and bondage glove with a brown painted nail or wear my trousers inside out with zips pinned on them when I went into town. I was once threatened by a teddy boy at Murrayfield ice rink but it came to nothing and I never actually saw any trouble. There must have been but I think Edinburgh was safer than London at the time.
A lot of punk bands played at Clouds at Tollcross (now Lava/Ignite) and also Tiffanys on St Stephen Street(now demolished). The local bands initially were The Rezillos who ended up on Top of the Pops with their song Top of the Pops, The Valves and The Scars but more would appear as time went on.
There were lots of local fanzines such as Inside Out and Kingdom Come which were written and photocopied by ordinary music fans and sold in record shops. It was a great creative time that kicked the establishment up the arse and Edinburgh was a great place to be a part of it. And then it was 1980 --------------
Back in the post punk days of the early 1980s Edinburgh was an interesting place to be. It was a time of extreme clothes and hair and it was common to see men in full make up and not just in the clubs. I remember sitting on Saturday afternoons in Crawfords cafe on Hanover Street putting black eye liner around my eyes like a panda – well they did have great full length mirrors.
The best pub was the Tap O'Lauriston at Tollcross. One side was darts, dominoes and dogs and the other was full of interesting looking people. On busy Saturday nights the two areas would spill into each other. I remember looking round one night to see Hearts fans standing on one table, Hibs on the other, old men, transvestites, punks, goths all mixed together and I didn't see any trouble.
The Nite Club next to the Playhouse was a great place to go. They had bands on every weekend and I remember going to quite a few, seeing a very early Depeche Mode and lots of other electro and punk bands. It seemed so futuristic to me with the exotic looking people and the synths – strangely it still does! There was also Valentinos at Tollcross but for some reason I never went there. I did go to The Underground around 1983 which was at the top of Blair Street under the Tron pub. That was always a great night with a mix of old punk and more recent alternative music.
There was also the Hoochie Coochie Club upstairs at Coasters (now Lava/Ignite) which attracted a great mix of people. They used to sometimes have bands on too.
The famous gay club Fire Island on Princes St (now Waterstones) had an alternative night on Mondays called Blue Mondays which always attracted a good crowd.
We went to ordinary pubs too but you did have to watch where you went as some people didn't like freaky people in their pub. We once walked into the Ensign Ewart to be greeted with the word “OUT!”
Printed in the Evening News 1/12/12
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